by Lydia Stout of Ady’s Fabric
This year we are going to make a 52″ quilt; we’ll be making four different block patterns and the quilt has 9 squares total so you will need to make multiples of some of the blocks. As you can see from the illustration, I elected to use one square four times, two of the blocks twice and one square as just the center block. When finished, it can be used as a quilt, wall hanging or table cover. The choice is yours and the fabrics and color choices will determine what the finished quilt will be most suited for. 
In this first of five columns we’ll go over the basics – terms, seam allowances, fabric preparation. I’d suggest keeping this information to refer to as we work the blocks since I won’t repeat them each time but use them in the instructions.
There is one thing I really want to stress – there is NO one correct way to piece quilt blocks. Chance are if you ask ten people how to make a block you will get at least ten different sets of instructions, and all may be a perfectly good way to construct the block. So remember that everything I share is the way I do it and what I consider the best or easiest but not the only way.
Pre-washing fabric
– I don’t. I will check that the fabric is colorfast in this way. I take a white cloth and dip it in hot water, wring out the excess water and gently rub the cloth on an outside edge of the fabric. If the dye doesn’t come off onto the cloth, then pre-washing is not necessary. But remember: if you wash one fabric in a project, be sure to wash all of the fabrics in that project.
Selvages
– The two edges of the fabric that run the length of the fabric are tightly woven since they are used to move the fabric through the dying process. When washed, the selvages may shrink more than the remainder of the fabric and cause puckers in your finished project.
Pressing
– In quilting we don’t iron; we press. The difference is how the iron is applied to the fabric. Pressing is done with a light hand; with more of an up and down motion rather than back and forth. The weight of the iron isn’t completely on the fabric.
Starch
– Using starch gives your fabric body and less opportunity for stretching and distortion. My starch of preference is Best Press. When using it, the fabric does not stick to the ironing board, it doesn’t flake, and it smells really good.
RST (WST)
– Right (Wrong) sides of fabric together. This is usually used in cutting instructions when cutting two identical pieces/strips.
Seam Allowance
– Unless otherwise indicated, all seams used in this quilting project will be 1/4″. Some sewing machines come with a 1/4″ or scant 1/4″ sewing foot and some with just a universal foot. Accurate and consistent seam allowances are two of the most important components when constructing quilt blocks. No matter what foot you will be sewing with I suggest doing the following to make sure you are sewing 1/4″ seam allowances.
Cut (3) strips of fabric 3″ wide x 6″ long.
Using what you believe to be 1/4″ seams sew the three strips together. You will have a rectangle approximately 6″ long x 8″ wide.
Press both seam allowances toward the outside.
Measure the center strip at the top, center and bottom. If it measures 2-1/2″ wide at all three places then you are sewing accurately.
If it doesn’t, try a different foot or fabric placement. Repeat the steps outlined above. When you do get a 2-1/2″x8″ center strip, first celebrate and secondly mark the exact placement or foot that you need to use every time you are piecing for your quilt.
Fabric
– The quality of the fabric that is used in a project is obvious. First just by the hand (feel), if it feels stiff and rough it will either stay that way or have no body at all after the first washing since all of the stabilizer is washed away. Second by the stability of the color. Truthfully there are some colors that can be considered “problem children” with red being the primary one. However, if dyes from all of the fabrics are released when checked for colorfastness, chances are the fabric is a lower grade. The best way I can illustrate how important using quality fabric is will be to relate what happened to me when I was first opening my shop. While getting ready to open I wanted something in both of our windows to give people an idea of what to expect. Both windows face the north and are on opposite sides of our door. In one I put a Grandmothers Fan Block from a project I had been working on several years earlier. The fabric for that particular project all came from one of the “big box stores,” not a local quilt shop (at that time there really were not many local quilt shops); in the other window I put a bolt of my fabric, which happened to be dark blue. I truly expected to throw the bolt of fabric away since blue fades quicker and easier than any other color. When I took the displays out of the windows about 2 months later, it was impossible to tell that the blue had been in the window; even the fold was still the exact same color as the rest of the fabric. Not the same with the block in the other window. It had faded to where I could not use it in the quilt. I guess it is true: “you get what you pay for.”
Needles
– Don’t just replace your sewing needles when they break or your sewing machine is making a “kwhamp kwhamp” sound. Depending on what and how much you sew, the needle should be replaced with every project to every three months. The weight of the fabric you are sewing also needs to be taken into consideration when replacing needles. I’d suggest starting this project with a new Schmitz Universal 70/10 or Quilting 90/14.
Thread
– A 50 weight neutral gray or tan thread is good. You can use it for both hand and machine sewing. All cotton, cotton blend or even poly is perfectly acceptable. However, I really encourage you to purchase quality thread; not the least expensive that you can find. Cheap thread breaks and frays easier; it also leaves a lot of lint in your sewing machine which will result in bills to adjust and clean your machine. Cheap thread will end up costing you more than starting with good thread; I carry Mettler and have always had wonderful results with it.
Pins
– They are like fabric and thread in that cheap pins will end up costing you since they will rust and bend. Purchase long (1-3/8″), extra fine (.50mm) pins; glass heads will not melt if you happen to press over one; flat heads are good if you will be using your ruler on top of them.
Ruler, Rotary Cutter & Mat
– I’m addressing all three of these as one item since it takes all three to achieve proper results. Mats also come in different sizes; if you start with one too small it will be difficult to cut 40″ fabric, the standard with of quilting cottons. I’d suggest starting with a 24″ or 36″. The ruler should be acrylic, designed to be used with a rotary cutter and a similar size to your cutting mat. For a 24″ or 36″ mat a 6″ x 24″ ruler is perfect. Rotary cutters come in several different sizes with the 45mm being the most popular size.
-Ady’s Fabric, Morgantown, IN www.adysfabrics.com
